Techno fans expecting to be taken up Vitosha Mountain for what Standart newspaper billed as "the most extravagant techno music party ever organized in Bulgaria" were disappointed last Saturday night. Instead of a free cable car to Aleko lift station, high on the mountain, they were herded into a car park at Simeonovo, the base of the lift.

The cable car was one of the main selling points of the party and the justification for the 10 leva ticket price. Club Indigo organized the Vitosha Open Air event and one of their representatives, Mr. Petrunov, explained that the lift was cancelled because the temperatures at Aleko station would be around two degrees, too cold for partygoers. He also claimed in an interview with the 24 Chassa newspaper that the lift needed $150,000 of maintenance before it could function properly. Logistics would have proved almost impossible - 3,500 people attended the event and each cable car can carry only six passengers. To transport everyone up the mountain would have taken more than six hours.

A security guard said that the visiting star, DJ Jeff Mills from Chicago, U.S., had refused to play at Aleko and this lead the Bulgarian DJs to follow suit.

"I think they had no intention of running the lift," said one fan who had travelled from Plovdiv for the event, "they just used the idea to sell tickets." It was not until after the NDK office had sold out of tickets on Saturday that local radio stations announced the cancellation of the Aleko stage of the party.

"I'm so disappointed," said Sasha, a 19-year-old student, "I didn't pay 10 leva to dance in a car park. If I had known about this before I wouldn't have come."

As Bulgarian DJ Paul warmed up the night from 10pm with house and jungle beats ravers found themselves trapped inside the car park. Trucks encircled the area, preventing anyone from leaving. Drinks were confiscated at the entrance so people had to purchase everything they needed from the overpriced stalls within the arena. Those wanting to use toilets outside were told by hostile security guards that no one could leave until after 1.30am. "This is so typical of Bulgaria," said Sasha. "No one cares about people - the organizers only care about money. It's disgusting that we pay so much for a ticket and they don't even provide toilet facilities."

Local residents were also upset. The party continued through the night until nine o'clock on Sunday morning. People living in nearby Simeonovo were so surprised by the noise that some called emergency services to report an earthquake, 24 Chassa reported. It was heard as far away as Mladost housing estate, Dervenitsa and other eastern housing estates where residents complained that they were "driven crazy" by the noise.

Mr. Petrunov apologized on Sunday. "I apologize to the people of Sofia. The first idea was to make the party further away, at Aleko, but that was cancelled," he said.

Although plenty of security guards were present there was no sign of an ambulance on standby to deal with emergencies. This lack of preparation could have proved fatal for 13-year-old Georgi Stoylov who was bitten by a snake in the adjoining field. As he picked up his jacket he felt the bite and started to scream. Security guards phoned for an ambulance and then decided to take him to hospital themselves, said Petrunov. At the toxicology ward of Pirogov hospital Stoylov was given an anti-venom serum. "I don't think it was a poisonous snake," said Dr. Boyanova, "otherwise he would have been dead." Stoylov was still under observation in hospital on Monday. "I'm going to go to the next techno party - and I'm really sorry I missed Jeff Mills," he said.

Despite all the inconveniences the ravers showed few signs of dissatisfaction. "Bulgarians are used to these difficulties, but they shouldn't be," said one dancer. DJ Rady took over the decks at around midnight and whipped the crowd into a frenzy with pounding tunes as he danced behind the turntables. Computer animations were projected onto the cable car station above the crowd and a dazzling array of lights and dry ice filled the night air. By the time Jeff Mills made his entrance, the arena was packed with more than 3,000 sweaty, dancing people. The legendary U.S. techno DJ played a style similar to DJ Rady but with a slower pace. "He needs to boost it up," said Sarah Parkin from New York. "He's good but I prefer Rady."

Hardcore dancers continued to rave into the night to the tunes of DJs Balthuzar, Alex Metchev and Kikk. Those who made it through to the morning were given free t-shirts with a Jeff Mills logo.

Electronic music has become hugely popular in Bulgaria. Top DJs frequently play around the country and make guest appearances abroad. Three weeks ago the Sofia Street Parade was organized to coincide with the Berlin Love Parade, one of the biggest techno events in the world.

The Bulgarian scene continues to attract big name foreign DJs. Ukrainian DJ Tapolsky and British DJ Ade Fenton will play this Saturday at the Veliko Turnovo Open Air party. On August 18 American DJ Rush will be playing with Swedish Devil Fish at the Summer Techno Festival in Varna. "Bulgarian fans are a good crowd," said Nadya Arsenova. "DJs like to play for us."

Polina Sonchuk, who attended the Vitosha party, said, "I like the people here so much. They're peaceful and friendly. You never see any fighting at techno parties because people come just to dance and enjoy the music," she added. "I do love these parties but they should do them properly with better organization."