Name: Arthur Coughlan
Age: 61
From: Malahide, Ireland

Arthur Coughlan's been in Bulgaria for just over two years, assisting in a massive upgrade of the Sofia Airport. With three years left in his contract, and a growing love of this area of the world, Arthur figures to be around for some time to come.

Arthur Coughlan came to Bulgaria because he needed a change.

"I knew very little about Bulgaria," said the aviation consultant. "I had preconceptions, but it would be a challenge, and I've always enjoyed challenges."

Working for AerRianta International cpt, Arthur's already seen his fair share of the world. He's worked in New York, Tanzania, Baghdad, Warsaw, and China to name a few, and his company recently won a contract to update the facilities at the Sofia Airport - a commitment which will keep him here until 2004.

Arthur knew he had his work cut out for him when he first arrived at the airport in September 1999. "It was dark, gloomy and depressing. Customer service didn't exist. Now you're seen as a customer, while before you were a suspect or someone unwelcome."

By the time his work here is done, the airport will have new taxiways, a new runway, a new terminal, and state of the art systems. "It will be ahead of European standards," said Arthur. "It will meet the country's needs until 2018.

"Our interest is not a commercial interest, but that Sofia gets the airport it deserves."

Beyond the walls of the airport, Arthur was impressed by what he found here. "Because of my Polish experience, I expected Bulgarian people to be more introspective, more closed," he said. "I was pleasantly surprised by how open people are, it's almost a Mediterranean culture - a friendlier, sunnier disposition."

Bulgarians also closely remind Arthur of Irish people. "They enjoy life and don't take themselves too seriously," he said, adding he was equally impressed by the country's landscape.

"It's astounding. I haven't seen nearly enough of it. From a geographical perspective, it has an unspoiled beauty."

In particular, Arthur has enjoyed the time he's been able to spend in Veliko Turnovo, Etara, Velingrad, and, especially, Melnik. "I was particularly impressed," he said of Melnik. "The houses and scenery is unique even in Bulgaria. And the wine helps."

He also enjoys the country's food, but has been surprised by the lack of boiled potatoes. "It's absent on 99 per cent of menus. Irish people have lived on them for years," he said, adding he enjoys one establishment in particular. "There are six Irish pubs here, the only one that comes close is J.J. Murphy's.

"Everywhere else feels like a pub. J.J. Murphy's feels like home."

In terms of picking up the language, Arthur plans on starting lessons in January to upgrade his survival Bulgarian. "However, having struggled through Polish and Arabic, the Cyrillic alphabet is daunting," he said.

Thinking back to his home in Ireland, Arthur most misses his family, and the sea, which was a stone's throw away from his doorstep. "I miss all my friends in the golf club and I miss my own village, and everyone I know there."

He also finds himself missing what is known in Ireland as the craic, which is the music, fun, and banter that goes along with the people one works with. That said, Arthur has been pleased with his new coworkers in Bulgaria. "They have exceeded all our expectations," he said. "They are well educated and motivated in their approach to work. We have a good relationship based on trust and mutual respect - it is not a Western view that is being imposed, but, rather, whatever is the best practice."

Arthur also works closely with two other AerRianta expats who are a large part of the reason he loves his work. "This is the best team I've ever worked with," he said. "We don't compete, and we all know what the others are doing. We always consult each other, and there are no egos getting in the way.

"Other than Baghdad, this has been the most satisfying work period of my life."

What has most surprised Arthur about the country, however, is the apathy among people who are extremely well educated. In particular, he was shocked by the absence of backlash from people who had their assets destroyed when Balkan airlines went bankrupt.

"What happened to Balkan airlines would have caused a revolution in other countries," he said. "Corruption at the highest levels goes unpunished."

Something else which has caused Arthur great concern is the fact that he never sees handicapped children in Bulgaria. "In any other society, you see X amount of handicapped children. These children are somewhere. Where? Institutionalized perhaps.

"You don't hear anybody talking about it."

When Arthur's contract comes to a close in 2004, he admits it may be time to hang up his work boots. "I'll play golf and sit on the beach," he said, adding he still plans on spending a great deal of time in this area of the world.

"I have to come back. I might even invest here and start my own business."