Address: Veliko Turnovo
Tel: 062/ 634 946
Open: 8.00 to 19.00 (April 1 to October 31), 9.00 to 17.00 (November 1 to March 31)
Entry: four leva

Just as a trip to Athens would be incomplete without visiting the Acropolis, so the hike up to Tsarevets is an integral part of the Veliko Turnovo experience. The medieval fortress that watches over the city may not be as beautiful as its Greek counterpart, but it is steeped in history and well worth a look.

Fortified as a Byzantine stronghold since the fourth century CE, it was taken in the 12th century and became the centre of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom. As such, it was one of the most important fortresses in the East, often compared to Constantinople.

With Bulgarian culture blossoming and the Ottoman forces held at bay, the empire flourished and Turnovo became a centre for painting and commerce; at that time, Tsarevets, surrounded by impregnable walls and topped by the palace and the Church of the Blessed Saviour, must have been a source of unending pride for the people it protected. The empire, however, disintegrated and petty infighting and tribal disputes made it an easier target for the Turks, who eventually sacked the city in 1393 after a three month siege.

As you enter the citadel along the south-western stone causeway, it is easy to get a sense of the power that the ramparts once represented. Walls more than three metres high encircle the hills, broken in three places by enormous gates. Restoration of the complex began in 1930, but sadly, aside from the walls, little of its original spectacle remains. Once inside, the visitor can walk east, towards what is known as Baldwin's Tower. This is a reconstructed version of the tower where the Latin Emperor Baldwin met his death in the 13th century. The walk is pleasant and not taxing, taking you past various ruins, and on a good day the top of the tower affords pleasant views.

For a more punishing walk, head for the top of the citadel, towards the Patriarchate, otherwise known as the Church of the Blessed Saviour. In its day, this was the only structure allowed to be taller than the palace, which stood on the north side of the hill. The palace is now in ruins, but the church, reconstructed in 1980, still stands proud at the very top of the hill.

Having passed many stalls on the way up selling religious icons to eager tourists, I was keen to reach the top. The church was built in the 13th century, when Turnovo was known as a centre for culture; I was expecting the interior to be faithfully restored, the walls covered in Byzantine frescoes. Alas, the paintings inside the church are of such exquisite awfulness that the only way to truly appreciate them is in context: sweat pouring down your back, your face red and your heart pounding from the walk up the hill, eyes wide in astonished disappointment.

Painted in 1985, the modern frescoes apparently depict the triumphs and tragedies of the Second Bulgarian Empire. They are, quite simply, some of the most hideous things I have ever seen, and in such a setting, high on an ancient hill above an ancient city, at the centre of so much history and culture, they are so jarring and incongruous that you cannot help but marvel that someone found their inclusion appropriate. Rather than take a photograph, for which I would be charged the princely sum of three leva, I instead committed them to memory. I urge anyone else to make the effort to go and see them for him- or herself.

Tsarevets has one final trick up its sleeve; known as the sound and light show, it occurs after dark and is a joy to see. First shown in 1985 to commemorate the 800th anniversary of the uprising of Assen and Petar and thus the start of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom, it is a spectacle of lights, lasers and music. The whole fortress is lit up in different colours, and the music and church bells tell the story of the fall of Veliko Turnovo to the Turks.

If this all sounds like so much silliness, that's because it is, and so much the more enjoyable for it. The whole show lasts about 20 minutes and is best viewed from the seats beneath the western gate. It's a wonderful show, as tacky a celebration of history as I have ever witnessed. Even more charming is its unreliability; the show is paid for by tour parties, usually through various local hotels. Naturally protective of their patrons, the hotels can be quite cagey about whether or not the show will be put on when pressed by tourists hoping to see it for free. During the height of the tourist season, Wednesday and Saturday nights are good bets; look out for coach parties, which are a give-away. I have, however, waited for more than an hour, comforted that more than a 100 people were doing the same, before one by one we realised that the show would not go on that night! That the sound and light show has been running by popular demand for more than 20 years and yet that no one has thought to organise it the better to make a profit is, for me, part of its appeal.

Tsarevets has a long and noble history, and now, despite the grotesque frescos in the Patriarchate, the ruined state of its palace and the oddly hypnotic night time illuminations, it remains a dignified and imposing presence.

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