McCarthy’s
50 Alabin Street
Sofia
McCarthy’s is just past the intersection of Vitosha Boulevard and Alabin Street, although you may have some trouble finding it, especially if you had graced yourself with a few pints already and are looking for the pub sign on the street. Your best option is to twist your neck and look upwards as you walk from the Court House; it will be on the right side of the pavement on the second floor. Once you spot the large windows, turn right, walk into the arcade, past a dodgy clothes shop and a bemused-looking guard, and you will notice the pub sign on the left. Negotiate yourself through the white door and into the hallway and you cannot miss it from there; just follow the music and the scent of lager.
The establishment claims the pub is Irish-run, but on the two occasions that we went there, we did not spot any dancing, intoxicated, mischievous, merry leprechauns, just good-looking Bulgarian barmaids mesmerising customers into buying more lager. British drinkers will always be made welcome. Once you infiltrate the pub premises, you’ll find a warm, friendly, loud (but not annoying) cosy and smoky atmosphere, so the best you can do is to allow yourself to become immersed in the ambience.
Prices in McCarthy’s are very reasonable. A pint of Bulgarian lager will set you back 2.20 leva. For a pint of Guinness you will fork out a fiver, coffees are in the 2.20 leva range. Small spirits will set you back from three leva up to eight for a whisky – tough luck on unearthing a Bulgarian vodka or rakiya, however. Service is friendly, quick and comes with a ready smile; they speak English, and, yes, they can pour a proper pint of beer!
JJ Murphy’s
6 Karnigradska Street
Sofia
Ideal for any season, offering a snug hideout on a cold winter night and respite in the summer thanks to its shady back garden, Murphy’s, in a side street off Vitosha Boulevard, has become perhaps Sofia’s quintessential expat hangout.
The pub offers an impressive range of beers: Heineken (4.50 leva for 500ml), Murphy’s Red (six leva for 500ml), Murphy’s Stout (six leva for 500 ml), Stella (3.50 for 500ml), Guinness (seven leva for 500ml) and Kilkenny (seven leva for 500ml), to name but a few.
Among the most popular meals at Murphy’s are the Irish breakfast (13 leva) which includes two eggs, five Irish sausages, three slices of Irish bacon, beans, mushrooms, tomato, onion, buttered toast and a glass of orange juice.
Irish stew, perfect for a cold autumn night, with its succulent lamb stewed with potatoes, onions, carrots and herbs costs 12.90 for 500g. Traditional shepherds pie costs 9.90 leva for 500g. Original Irish bangers and mash will set you back 8.90 leva for 400g. More opulent customers will enjoy the 8oz fillet steak, served with potatoes, vegetables and pepper sauce, for 32.90 leva.
This is the kind of place where if you hang around long enough you’re likely to run into almost every expat you know. Just beware of the archetypal pub bore – in this case the overseas property buyer come to make what he hopes will be a good purchase of some dilapidated farmhouse in the Rhodopes. The recession diminished their number but they are beginning to re-appear in the undergrowth, so beware! Still, he may buy you a beer or two while you regale him with your "expert" opinions on Bulgaria.
Flannagan’s
Radisson SAS Grand Hotel
Narodno Sabranie Square
Sofia
Flannagan’s resembles a British-style upmarket pub, but without the in-your-face fake camaraderie. You can seclude yourself in a corner and read a newspaper happily alone without having to make small talk.
Flannagan’s is known in Sofia for its fine collection of whiskeys and beers. Large, flat-screen televisions broadcast many top sporting events from satellite channels, making it an ideal rendezvous for hotel guests as well as locals. In the summer, Flannagan’s serves food and drinks in the open patio right on the famous yellow paved square. The restaurant features a varied menu complemented by daily specials. Every Sunday, Flannagan’s Around the World brunch allows diners to enjoy a culinary journey featuring different global cuisines. Happy hour is usually every evening between 5pm and 7pm, two drinks for the price of one but only on specified brands. This means literally what it says – two for the price of one – making the lone drinker look like a raving dipsomaniac (why not just half price) but it’s good for thirsty passers-by.
There’s a nice view of the Parliament building opposite and, for those interested, frequent visits from politicians whom you can harangue about the current state of Bulgaria, language skills permitting, of course, on the part of you and your intended victim.