If you venture into the centre of Sofia, you will inevitably encounter one of the most iconic squares of the city, in the old town surrounded by Baroque buildings, narrow streets, swirling and twisting tram lines and tall spires. Slaveikov Square dates back a staggering four centuries of turbulent history. Built in Bulgaria's dark ages of Ottoman occupation, it was called Kafene Basi and the records trace its lineage way back to 1515. Back then, the square sported a coffeehouse, a mosque and two Turkish police stations.

Slaveikov Square has since seen a major rejuvenation and has witnessed the wars of independence, two Balkan wars and two world wars, as well as 50 years of communist dictatorship. And it was in the dying days of the old regime that Slaveikov became what it is today - a book market. The first book stalls were erected in 1988, and come the turbulent events of November 10 1989 when Todor Zhivkov's communist regime was toppled, a few book merchants had already established the embryo of Sofia's iconic open-air book market. It was the spring of 1990 when the square was massively invaded by book vendors, transforming the area into what it is today, establishing a 20-year tradition of the square as an intellectual well.

Now the iconic book market faces closure and the entire area will be subjected to thorough modernisation. In a decision taken by the Sofia municipality, a public competition will be held for the future restoration and rehabilitation of several main Sofia squares. Battenberg, Garibaldi, Sveta Elena and Slaveikov squares are set to be the most prominent victims of the new scheme.

A motion to that end has been passed by the urban planning committee of the Sofia municipal council, calling for the general public to be allowed to submit ideas and participate in the process themselves. In contrast to professional architectural competitions, the public ones offer total freedom for the submission of ideas - whether as a text, picture or drawing - city hall architect Lyudmil Leonidov said, as quoted by Stroitelstvo Gradut weekly.

One concept suggests the installation of a large modern kiosk to specialise in the sale of tickets for theatres, concerts and other cultural events. Some architects and urban planners believe that the current state of the square is unacceptable because it is ugly and dirty, unbecoming of a European capital city. They also maintain that its area isn't optimally utilised. The site is more appropriate for public events such as concerts and other meetings due to its relative proximity to the Sofia Library, said Leonidov.

With most central squares around Sofia set for a major overhaul, Sofia municipality will welcome ideas and feedback from residents towards the process. According to Leonidov, every European city has a major square where people meet and socialise. But Slaveikov Square has been transformed into what is perceived to be an open-air fleece market - a reputation that must change. Its present image as a souk (Arabic or Middle Eastern open air market) is in stark contrast to the modern and chic image the municipality wants to create for 21st century Sofia.

Apart from its "appalling appearance", local residents have long complained about constant noise as well as litter and all sorts of rubbish generated by street vendors. In light of these accusations and in accordance with future plans, Sofia municipality has once and for all decided to pull the rug from under the book market and give the entire area a major face-lift.

Proponents of its closure argue that there are many other squares in Sofia where people can meet and socialise, so gaining or losing another square is immaterial. Many people have defended the market and the book merchants, and some notable architects and social figures in Sofia have voiced their support for the status quo.

Regardless of the sentiments of tradesmen and the petition they gathered in support of the book market, however, the Slaveikov book market is being placed on death row. The entire area will be torn up and refurbished to comply with the modern image of Sofia. Most importantly, the square has to be "revealed" and its beauty shown to the public, and not congested with boxes, rubbish and stalls. According to architect Iskra Dandalova, the square should be returned to the people, not barricaded and occupied by booksellers and other vendors. Other architects defended the idea of the book market, but expressed the view that its current location is poorly chosen.

Some suggest a possible relocation to the so-called Monument of Monstrosity in front of NDK where a large open area is currently left to waste, or perhaps the nearby Vassil Levski National Stadium. The prospect of polluting Borissovata Gradina behind sector V, however, is equally unappealing, whereas should the market be placed on either side of B and G terraces, they risk being vandalised come match day...

Architect Stanislav Konstantinov, however, told Stroitelstvo Gradut that initially the reconstruction of Slaveikov Square foresaw the incorporation of part of the book market, close to the tram tracks, while freeing up most of the space for pedestrians. According to Konstantinov, it would be sad to tear up the entire book market because it has already become an institution, unique not only in Bulgaria but in Europe. Other architects also defended the book market, affirming its contribution to the cultural soul of Sofia.

The square
The square is named after father and son Petko and Pencho Slaveikov, both famous 19th and 20th century poets and writers, whose sculpture can be seen sitting on a bench towards the southern end of the square - being one of its main landmarks. In the 17th century, the square was an important crossroads stretching from modern Sveta Nedelya Square to Vitosha Boulevard and featured a big fountain. After the liberation of Bulgaria, the square was extended and many one and two storey houses with gardens were erected on the site, one of which belonged to Petko Slaveikov, whose name the square later adopted. Today some of the most noted buildings surrounding the square are the Teachers' Fund, built in 1924, the Ministry of Public Works (1928), and the French Institute (1934).