Purple Rain takes you through the majestic Rhodope mountains for a week and leaves you craving for more.

He who has not experienced the majesty of the Rhodope mountain has not lived life to the fullest. I’ve been to most Bulgarian mountains as well as to some abroad, but what has always drawn me to the Rhodope is how different, how spacious, how enchanting it is.

The route I offer is easily accessible by car. All you need is a good road map, a safe car, a bit of cash and huge potential for emotional experiences, of which there are plenty.

Day 1
We take off on Trakia Highway, toward Plovdiv. Turn off the highway toward Pazardjik to reach the town of Krichim. From there, go on to Devin. The road is relatively wide, though mind your speed, because passing a large truck or bus could prove difficult. The curvy road will have you driving slowly, but this is just as well – you’ll be able to enjoy the breathtaking scenery. You’ll pass a two-lake cascade. The first one is Krichim lake, the second one, Vucha. This is where I suggest you spend the first night, to appreciate the view of the dark green water and the houses perched in the middle of the lake. Those houses are one of the region’s main attractions, and dining and sleeping above impressively sized fish swimming in icy water 60 to 80m deep is a memorable experience. Locals say that in this lake there are catfish that are two m long and weigh more than 150kg. Whether that’s true or simply part of local folklore I cannot say, but I can assure you of a good catch should you try fishing.

Day 2
We are off to Devin. The small town is picturesque and the people are lovely. Were I to describe the people of the Rhodope, they are like a song from the region – slow, sad, pure and deep. There are a number of hotels in town, some of which are spa centres with great accommodation and facilities. Your choice will be a matter of taste and means, but whatever you do, rest well, so that you’re prepared for the sights and experiences awaiting you. The town is very pleasant to walk through and has a museum worth visiting.

Day 3
Leave early in the morning, so that you can see two of the most beautiful gorges and two of the most famous caves in a day. When you leave Devin, turn to the right. Follow the sign to Grohotno. After the village, you’ll turn left toward Trigrad. The road is very narrow but worth taking. The scenery is exquisite and you’ll pass many high rocks. In some places, the road is literally carved into them. Soon you’ll arrive to Diavolsko Gurlo (Devil’s Throat) cave. You might have to wait a bit until a large-enough group gathers, so that a guide can take you in. The cave is very deep, and a river runs through it. They say that nothing flowing in the river and into the cave ever gets out when the river leave the rocks. Hence the cave’s name.

Haramiiskata cave is very close by, famous for the fossils and cave drawings inside it. Access is difficult and you need to have special equipment. There are organised trip with professional rock climbers and guides.

Grab a bite in Trigrad and return to the main road. Head to the Yagodinska cave. The walk inside the cave takes about an hour. Make sure you dress warmly; the temperature inside the cave is 6C year-round.

Now it’s time to go back to Devin and have a good night’s rest before we head off to Smolyan the next morning.

Day 4
The road to Smolyan passes through Shiroka Laka, a village that is very authentic, having preserved the spirit and architecture of the Rhodope of centuries ago. Before you reach Smolyan, you can stop off at Pamporovo. After seeing the severe, rocky Rhodope we’ve passed so far, you’ll be able to enjoy the soft slopes, the dark green of dense pine woods, the scent of pine everywhere. This is typical for the central Rhodope.

Go up the TV tower on Snezhanka Peak. The lift fee is nominal and once there, you can have a coffee or a bite to eat enjoying the unobstructed view of the mountains.

You can stay in Pamporovo, but I’d recommend spending the night in Smolyan – you’ll spend less and not risk trying to rest in proximity to some construction site. You’ll also be able to walk around Smolyan, which is very narrow and several km long.

Day 5
Our destination is Smolyan. There is another cave there, Uhlovitca. You’re in for a strenuous hike, but it’s worth doing, especially before you’ve had lunch. Also, make sure you stop by one of the ostrich farms in the region.

Now we’re off to town. The scenery is reminiscent of the kingdom in The Lord of the Rings, part one. Everything is somehow greener, softer. In Smolyan, other than to buy the famous variety of beans grown there, I recommend that you check in Mlechen Dom (Milk House). It’s a small hotel with a dairy farm where you can buy a variety of superb milk products.

You may also go to the village of Gorna Arda and ask for Diadova Ryaka. It’s difficult to access; you must drive up on a narrow mountain road. When you reach the end of the road, you must walk for 10 minutes until you reach the destination. Enjoy the fresh air, the pool with clear spring water and the amazing views. The owners will treat you to trout, which you can catch yourself.

Day 6
On the way back to Sofia, instead of retracing our itinerary, after Smolyan we turn off to Chepelare, Assenovgrad and Plovdiv. About 10km after Chepilare is the turn-off toward Chudnite Mostove (Miraculous Bridges) – large natural rock bridges that the river carved in the course of eons.

Soon after you get back on the road to Assenovgrad you’ll see Sinia Han, a perfect place for lunch in an authentic atmosphere. If you’re not hungry yet, you may wait until you arrive at Bachkovo, home to Bulgaria’s oldest monastery where the relics of the last patriarch of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom, Patriarch Evtimii, are kept.

Just before you get to Assenovgrad, you’ll see a sign to the Assenova Krepost. The fortress has been used by the armies of Byzantine and Bulgaria. It is named after King Assen, one of the most powerful Bulgarian rulers in the Middle Ages.

Day 7
Time to head back to Sofia and get readjusted to city life. At the end of this trip you’re sure to be in love with the Rhodope for the rest of your life, wanting to go back there again and again. Trust me, this is just a small part of what the region offers and, truth be told, a week is definitely not enough.