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Laguna

Aug 06 2007 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

Sofia is not lacking in funkily trendy restaurants, many of which are not outrageously priced. The real challenge is to find one where as much attention is given to the food as to the atmosphere. Style often wins out over substance, and Laguna is no exception. The whimsical Little-Mermaid-meets-bachelor-pad decor is accented by large seashells illuminated from within and suspended from artful coils of rope. Chrome-

A cup of artistry

A cup of artistry

May 28 2007 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

Suppose you want to sit in the middle of a classily funky art gallery with a cup of tea, listening to live music and pondering the option to have a light meal, a glass of wine, or something sweet. Too much to ask? Not if you're in the right place. And that place would Tea House (aka, Chai vuv fabrikata, or Tea in the Factory), and it would also be Snegana Gallery-since both of these places are together, as one, in the same

Popsheitanova Kushta

Popsheitanova Kushta

Apr 09 2007 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

Shoumen is not considered by many to be the garden spot of Bulgaria. There's an overabundance of Communist-era concrete, moulded and fashioned into various oversized and unattractive forms. In the centre of town stands the skeleton of an unsalvageable architectural abomination - a permanently unfinished apartment building resembling a huge, fossilised caterpillar stood on end. High on a distant hill stands

THE DIARY

Apr 02 2007 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

Off we went to Rousse, where we have to hang B's art tomorrow for his and N's exhibit which opens tomorrow night. It was a crappy, cold day, and along the way some kid got sick on the bus. Lovely. We got into Rousse around 1.30pm and met O, the guy who's supposed to be looking after us. He's an actor, but he's also connected with the European Cultural Centre, which is where B and N's show will be.

Swingin' Hall

Swingin' Hall

Mar 19 2007 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

Jazz isn't exactly one of the prevailing musical genres in Sofia (or anywhere else in Bulgaria, for that matter) at the moment. In fact, an informal survey I've done over the past few months on what my friends here (Bulgarians as well as expats) think of jazz music has yielded a spectrum of responses, from an enthusiastic "YEAHHH!" to a wrinkled nose and a lacklustre "Ermmm...". To be fair, I should learn to phrase

Karaoke-night camaraderie

Karaoke-night camaraderie

Mar 05 2007 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

What's the deal with karaoke night? Is it a safe and legal catharsis at the end of a particularly nasty work day, an opportunity to display bona-fide vocal skills in a completely relaxed and informal setting, or a musical fantasy-camp where one can enjoy a brief and shining moment of stardom? For many who are called to the stage, it's a combination of all of these - and more. Above all, a karaoke night is democracy in

Krivoto

Krivoto

Feb 12 2007 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

If you want something done quickly, well and inexpensively, you usually have to be prepared to settle for two out of the three. And when this axiom is applied to a restaurant, the experience can be especially frustrating. Who among us has not wasted time and money on a dining experience that in some regard was an absolute letdown? Good atmosphere, good food... lousy service. Good service, good

With a name like this, it's got to be good

With a name like this, it's got to be good

Feb 05 2007 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

As a jazz singer, I am always keen to discover a jazz club where I can meet like-minded musicians, enjoy their music, and maybe even get to make a little music with them. Naturally, then, I was pretty excited when I first heard about Satchmo Boy; after all, anyone with the audacity to name a jazz club after the legendary trumpeter Louis "Satchmo" Armstrong would (one hopes) have high standards

Subterranean homesick Bluzz

Subterranean homesick Bluzz

Jan 29 2007 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

It's an unseasonably mild mid-winter night in Sofia. You fall into step with the roving packs of nomadic Friday club-goers on the way to their next destination, relentlessly pursued by the pavement-shaking thud...thud...thud...thud that pounds from the portal of club after club after club. The same beat, the same tempo, and sometimes even the same song, for what seems like kilometres on end, until the sound of

Six weeks in the Rhodopes: a village experience

Dec 11 2006 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

In the summer of 2005, my husband and I lived in Polkovnik Serafimovo, a tiny Rhodope mountain village about seven km south-east of Smolyan and named after Vladimir Serafimov, a colonel who saved the region from a Turkish attack during the Balkan Wars of the early 20th century. We stayed in this village for six weeks as recipients of artist residencies through the co-operation of two men, Lyubomir Levchev and Hughes

Gyulyum (Gulum) Turkish Restaurant

Dec 04 2006 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

A restaurant that specialises in a cuisine with which you are totally unfamiliar presents a prime opportunity for widening your gastronomic horizons. Hoping for an education on Turkish food, I decided to investigate Gyulyum (how it is pronounced in Bulgarian, due to the umlauts in the Turkish word), located just off Hristo Botev Boulevard in the centre of Sofia. This restaurant is a smallish place with two storeys,

For instant gratification, `bird' is the word

For instant gratification, `bird' is the word

Nov 13 2006 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

When my husband and I first moved into our apartment on William Gladstone Street in Sofia, we were travel weary from our transatlantic flight and totally clueless about what our new neighbourhood had to offer. I was in the sort of drooling, monosyllabic state that could only be cured by a dose of highly concentrated coffee, but we had nothing like that in our new place, nor was there anything that we recognised

Past and Present at Sofia City Art Gallery

Nov 06 2006 09:00 CET by Phred Mileski

It was the tail end of a Wednesday afternoon when I first entered the Sofia City Art Gallery, a building nestled on the corner of Gurko and Battenberg streets and cushioned by greenery on both sides. I had, however, been to the adjoining park a few times before and enjoyed its sculpture garden (and the ongoing chess rivalries on the far side of the park).

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