St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral
The cathedral sits in Alexander Nevski Square, a large and open cobblestone area that plays host to an eclectic and fascinating daily open-air flea market. The area is also often used for huge political rallies.
The church's famous gilded domes (whose gold leaf was donated by the Soviet Union in 1960) cast a massive overall presence. The monument covers an area over 3100 square metres and can be seen from most elevated areas in Sofia - even from Mount Vitosha!
The National Assembly of 1879 made the decision to build the church as a monument to honour Tsar Alexander II of Russia. The "Tsar Liberator" and his army (200000 of whom were killed) helped free Bulgaria from the Ottoman Turks in the War for Liberation in 1877-78. The structure was named after the patron saint of the Tsar's family, Alexander Nevski, a Russian prince who helped thwart a Swedish invasion of his homeland in 1240 and was subsequently sainted for his efforts.
The stone foundation was laid in 1882, but it took over 30 years to complete the neo-Byzantine style cathedral using the design of Pomerantsev, a St. Petersburg architect.
With five aisles and three altar iconostases, the cavernous interior of the church is full of interesting details made by both Russian and Bulgarian artists. Unfortunately, dim lighting makes some of these difficult to see -such as the expressive paintings of Biblical scenes and saints that cover the walls and ceilings.
Other highlights include: Italian mosaics, multi-coloured marble, stained glass windows, huge chandeliers and a throne enhanced by Brazilian onyx and alabaster, once used by Tsars Boris and Ferdinand.
The cathedral has a capacity of 5000 and hosts at least that many on important Orthodox celebrations, such as midnight mass ceremonies on Christmas eve and Easter - when thousands of Bulgarians solemnly sweep through and around the outside of the cathedral, candles in hand, often singing.
Hearing the cathedral's choir singing Bulgarian Orthodox hymns and chants is a haunting and memorable experience that should not be missed.
Open daily 7:00-17:30. Daily services 8:00 and 17:00. Saturday service 18:00. Sunday service 17:00. Admission free.
The Museum of Medieval Bulgarian Art (in the Alexander Nevski Cathedral Crypt)
The cathedral's crypt houses a very well designed, displayed and maintained museum which displays about 250 original mural frescoes and icons at any given time. All eras of Bulgarian icon painting are represented, and many of them are from the famous Tryavna, Samokov and Nessebar schools of iconography - including unusual double-sided icons from the 14th century.
The gift shop has many good replica icons for sale, ranging from very affordable to not at all affordable prices.
Tel. # 981-5775. Open Daily 10:00-18:00, except Tuesdays. Admission 3 leva, guided tour 9 leva.
Church of Sveta (Saint) Sofia
Sitting adjacent to the Nevski Cathedral, and looking much more modest, is the red brick Church of St. Sofia, a recently restored Byzantine church which gave its name (meaning "holy wisdom") to the city in the late 14th century.
Today, it is the oldest Eastern Orthodox church in Sofia, and the second oldest building in the city, with a long and fascinating history. It was built on the site of several earlier churches and places of worship dating back to the days when it was the necropolis of the Roman town Serdica (named after the Thracian Serdii tribe who originally inhabited the area).
In the 2-nd century CE, it was, ironically enough, the location of a theatre used by the Romans for bloody public spectacles, such as the persecution and sacrifice of Christians in battles against gladiators and various wild beasts.
Over the next few centuries, several other churches were erected, only to be destroyed by invading forces such as the Goths and the Huns.
The basic cross design of the present basilica, with its two east towers and one tower-cupola, is probably the fifth structure to inhabit the site and was built during the reign of Byzantine emperor Justinian in the middle of the 6-th century.
During the Ottoman period of Bulgarian history, a minaret was added which functioned as a mosque. Earthquakes in 1818 and 1858 destroyed the minaret and the mosque was more or less abandoned for some years before restoration work began.
After recent renovations (some is still being done), the church is open and well worth visiting. Open 7:00-18:00. Admission free.
Other notable attractions.
Beside the Church of St. Sofia, facing the flea market, is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Eternal Flame Monument - memorials to Bulgarian soldiers who have died in the service of their country.
Created in 1981, the monument bears poetry from Ivan Vazov as well as soil from both Shipka and Stara Zagora - sites of some of the fiercest fighting during the 1877-78 war against the Turks.
Around the back of the church is the grave of author Ivan Vazov, who penned the famous book "Under the Yoke" about the time of Turkish oppression. It was his wish to be buried in a place where the common people of Sofia spent time. A boulder taken from nearby Mount Vitosha marks his grave.
Just South of the square stands the Holy Synod.
Built in 1910, this is the location of the official headquarters of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church as well as the residence of the Bulgarian Patriarch (closed to the public).
Sporting colourful mosaics, stone and tile work, an arched portico and several cupolas, the building is an interesting backdrop to the bustling flea market that occupies this portion of the square on most days, especially on weekends.
To the East of the Nevski Cathedral, you'll pass the "Lace Ladies" portion of the Nevski bazaar. Here you can bargain for all sorts of traditional and modern lace, embroidered tablecloths and linen, rugs and even old folk costumes.
Continuing on, you'll see the large white St. Cyril and Methodius International Art Gallery, which, upon completion in the late 1800's, served as the Royal Printing House. Destroyed in bombing raids during the Second World War, it was rebuilt and eventually reopened in 1985.
It holds an interesting collection of international artwork, including wood carvings from Africa, art from Burma, Japanese prints, wood sculptures from temples in India, and several pieces by European masters such as Matisse, Van Dyke, Delacroix and Renoir.
There is also a good collection of Bulgarian art and some historical pieces, such as a replication of a 4th century Roman tomb and church that were found when construction of the building first began. Open 11:00-18:00, except Tuesdays. Small admission fee, guided tour 4 leva.
Just beyond the gallery is a busy traffic circle, non-descript except for its historic importance to Bulgaria's past. Here cars and busses impolitely screech around the obelisk monument which marks the spot of famous anti-Turkish revolutionary Vassil Levski's hanging on February 19, 1873 - three years before the Liberation war actually broke out.
Annual ceremonies take place in February, when Bulgarians lay fresh flowers at the monument to honour this much-revered hero of independence.
Taking Rakovski Street from St. Sofia will take you to the National Opera, which was opened in 1909. Here you'll be greeted on the corner by a hulking bronze statue of Alexander Stamboliiski.
This former Prime Minister's radical policy on agrarian reform and his ideas about giving up the fight for Macedonia eventually led to his assassination on this spot by the IMRO, in a 1923 uprising.
The Opera building itself is rather large and imposing, built in the neoclassical style with columns lining the front stairs, and a frieze above which portrays the Bulgarian fight against fascism. The interior is quite striking, decorated with various paintings and with marble. Reasonably priced tickets to ballets and operas can be bought at the ticket office at the opposite end of the front stairs.
